The trumpet-shaped flowers of Hippeastrum, commonly known as amaryllis, can measure up to 25cm across, and some varieties produce clusters of up to six blooms per stem, making them an incredibly easy and floriferous way to deck the halls with colour for Christmas.

Originally from subtropical regions in the Americas, this magnificent plant thrives really well indoors in Scotland, and is incredibly easy to cultivate as the bulb comes preloaded with flower buds, ensuring it blooms in the first year.

Typically, it flowers within seven to ten weeks after planting so to time the blooms to perfection for a Christmas Day delight, or to gift as a living Christmas gift, plant them in mid to late October.

Amaryllis Varieties for a Festive Display

There are so many varieties of amaryllis on the market that you really can find one to match in with your Christmas decor.

Try:

• ‘Red Lion’ – a vibrant 60cm tall, red variety
• ‘Snow White’ and ‘Mont Blanc’ – both are pure white varieties with green centres, reaching 60cm in height
• ‘Picotee’ – features white petals with a delicate pink edge
• ‘Evergreen’ – boasts slender petals in a zesty lime-green

• ‘Black Pearl’ – a deeper maroon hue with velvety, dark flowers, also growing to 60cm
• ‘Emerald’ – produces greyish-white, frilled petals etched with red
• ‘Royal Velvet’ – growing to around 50cm tall, these blooms are a deep scarlet shade with a velvety texture

Selecting and Planting

You can find dormant bulbs at garden centres, nurseries, or through online suppliers. If you can, ensure the bulb is firm and free from signs of mould or rot before purchasing.

Plant the bulb in a pot 5cm wider than its diameter, with one-third of the bulb sitting proud above the compost surface. A tight-fitting pot is preferable, only repot when the bulb outgrows it.

Water thoroughly and allow the pot to drain. Finish by adding horticultural grit or decorative stones around the bulb to maintain moisture.

Caring for Amaryllis

Place the pot in a warm, well-lit area at around 21°C. Turn pots on windowsills around every day so the flower stem gets a similar amount of light on all sides and grows a strong, straight stem.

Initially, water sparingly, increasing as the foliage emerges from the bulb’s top. Once leaves grow and the plant flowers, keep the compost evenly moist, and feed with liquid fertiliser every 7-10 days during the leafing stage.

Once in flower, you will need to support the flower spikes with canes.

To make the blooms last for as long as possible, move the pot to a cool spot, at around 12-15°C, with as much light as possible but out of direct sunlight, and remove any fading flowers.

Troubleshooting

The main problems when growing amaryllis often come from over-watering. Amaryllis need very free-draining compost, so watering too much can lead to fungal infections. Symptoms include yellowing leaves and a droopy stem. You may not be able to remedy the problems once arisen, but in the future, make sure your bulbs grow in free-draining compost and the pot never sits in water.

Another cause of a droopy stem can be too much warmth, which encourages the stem to grow too quickly. Use a cane to support it and grow in cooler conditions the following year.

Ensuring Your Amaryllis Blooms Year After Year

Remove any faded flowers, and to make sure the bulb stores enough energy to bloom again next year, keep watering and feeding for as long as the leaves are still green, stopping when they turn yellow.

Once the leaves have died, cut them off 2.5cm above the top of the bulb and put the dormant bulb, still in its pot, in a cool, dark, dry place and forget about it.

In autumn next year, bring the pot back into the light and start watering it.

By planting now, you can look forward to the vibrant colours and elegant blooms that this festive houseplant can bring to deck the halls of your festive season.

Like many bulbs, including lilies, all parts of amaryllis are poisonous to cats and dogs, so grow them in areas pets cannot reach.